Posted by MassiveProng on 03/19/07 07:26

On Sun, 18 Mar 2007 23:35:01 GMT, bv@wjv.com (Bill Vermillion) Gave
us:

>In article <panov25tt09070l9fjjmfdbl2412n99gsq@4ax.com>,
>MassiveProng <MasiveProng@yourhiney.org> wrote:
>>On Sat, 17 Mar 2007 12:21:40 -0700, Bob Nielsen <bob@nowhere.net> Gave
>>us:
>>
>>>MassiveProng wrote:
>>>> On 16 Mar 2007 21:21:04 -0700, "shaq" <shaqtopz@aol.com> Gave us:
>>>>
>>>>> On Mar 16, 9:25 am, b...@wjv.com (Bill Vermillion) wrote:
>>>>>> In article <mn.4ad67d73efdd7415.1...@nobody.invalid>,
>>>>>> Gene E. Bloch <hamburger@NOT_SPAM.invalid> wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> On 3/09/2007, Bill Jeffrey posted this:
>>>>>>>>> Step away from the Monster and Acoustic Research cables! NOW!
>>>>>>>>> Go towww.monoprice.comorwww.svideo.comand buy the cables
>>>>>>>>> there. Generics are just as good as high priced ones. Really!
>>>>>>>>> Chip
>>>>>>>> Six out of six responses agree that Monster Cable and AR Cable are overhyped
>>>>>>>> BS. And you know what, boys? He's going to go out and buy one of them anyway.
>>>>>>>> And then come back to the group and regale us all with how wonderful they
>>>>>>>> are.
>>>>>>>> The BS'ers rely on the gullibility of such people - and apparently they are
>>>>>>>> successful.
>>>>>>>> Bill
>>>>>>> I read the customer reviews and testimonials on a site for some
>>>>>>> kind of paint to improve the contacts on plugs & jacks. Wish I
>>>>>>> could post the link, but I didn't bookmark it, and unfortunately
>>>>>>> I've forgotten it.
>>>>>> I remember from the past that something called Stabilant-22 and/or
>>>>>> Cramolin were recommended. The former becomes conductive when an
>>>>>> electrical signal is passed through.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Cramolin is a contact cleaner.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> You can find info on either by using Google.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Most of the people seemed to use it on the audio and video
>>>>>>> connections, as I would've expected, but some people used it on
>>>>>>> their power cord connectors, and they raved about the resulting
>>>>>>> great improvement in the sound-stage and presence.
>>>>>>> Bill Jeffrey, P. T. Barnum, and H. L. Mencken were right.
>>>>>> Particulary about using it on the power connectors. That goes
>>>>>> right along with the bricks on the power supply and the Tice
>>>>>> clocks.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Bill
>>>>>>
>>>>>> --
>>>>>> Bill Vermillion - bv @ wjv . com- Hide quoted text -
>>>>>>
>>>>>> - Show quoted text -
>>>>> Check out www.deoxit.com
>>>>> Lots of good stuff.
>>>>> Mike
>>>>
>>>> Yeah... great stuff... At twenty times what it is worth.
>>>>
>>>> You'd have to buy it in 35 gallon drums to even get close to a
>>>> decent price.
>>>>
>>>> I have a bridge in Brooklyn, NY I'll sell you.
>>>>
>>>> You'd be better off with the best.
>>>>
>>>> http://www.ensolv.com/P_ensolv.htm
>>>>
>>>> Also, very expensive industry targeted media, BTW.
>>>
>>>An small amount will last for years, however. I bought a can of
>>>Cramolin in 1987 and still have must of it after many uses. It was the
>>>only thing I could find which worked on the ISA card contacts of the
>>>Compaq Deskpro I had at the time.
>>>
>>>
>>>Cramolin is no longer available; de-oxit is the replacement.
>>
>>
>> So. I am not looking to replace something I didn't ever use with
>>something I don't use.
>>
>> The ensolve is bromide based, which is what makes it so good.
>
>> Better than the "cramolin replacement".
>
>> Oh and ISA contacts? Sheesh, just get out the pencil eraser!
>
>Not a very good solution but used far too often.

Abrasive rubbers are used ALL THE time in the machining industry to
achieve micro-polished finishes. Your guessed at analysis is
uninformed, and blatantly obvious.

> The rubber
>in the eraser often contains such things as sulfur which will
>accellerate the oxidation.

No, the rubber in an eraser is less abrasive than erasers which are
actually made specifically for the purpose, meaning that the finish
will be even finer.

>BUT - and this is the big problem

Yet another guess, billy. You won't win. Your made up drunken
bullshit doesn't change what has been known for decades. The eraser
utilizes the same action on metal that it does on paper. On fine
oxide layers, as is the case here, it removes the oxides WITHOUT
removing very much metal media at all.

>- the erasing will leave small
>grooves

Bullshit. I have worked in machining as well as jewelry craft and I
know differently. It abrades the metal very very little, if at all.

> in the contacts and since when these are inserted into the
>socket these aren't making contact but are more prone to oxidation.

More bullshit. PLated fingers carry the texture of the fiberglass
PCB substrate they are plated onto, and their surface characteristics
follow that, and an eraser hits it with a finer than 800 grit medium
that abrades it very little, if at all. All that gets removed ARE the
oxides. It promotes NONE.

>Erasers are about the worst thing you can use for low voltage
>contacts.

You are sadly mistaken, yet again.

>One of the easiest ways is to take a piece of good paper - and bond
>paper - one with rag content is best - is to fold it over the
>contacts,

W are talking about the fingers on a PCB card, not burnishing spring
contacts, and for that, I use a paper that is specifically
manufactured for that very purpose, and is even called contact
burnishing paper.

> graps with your fingers, and rub back and forth. You'll
>notice a lot of dark oxide on the paper.

NO, I will not, as I wouldn't use ordinary paper.

>Works well, does not leave scratches,

ANY abrading media, including your paper leaves scratches, that's
how it works, dufus.

> and does not remove any of
>the clading

Neither does a NON-abrasive eraser. They are, in fact, even LESS
abrasive than paper is.

> - which is very important if the contacts were
>originally plated.

ALL connector contacts are plated, dingledorf. I have worked in the
industry for decades, and I don't guess at the events that take place.

>>Bwuahahahaha!
>
>Back at you.

Yer an idiot if you think your guesswork at how this task works has
any basis in reality. It doesn't.

>> Sounds like Compaq picked the wrong cheap chinese replacement for a
>>good brand (ie AMP) connector to use on their overtly proprietary PC
>>hardware. Yeah, I know that ISA isn't proprietary, but a lot of their
>>CRAP was.Thanks for the laugh though.
>
>I always went for AMP whenever possible.

Good for you. That still doesn't mean that you know anything about
metallurgy or surface prep. I have polished everything from 12' X 25'
x 2" plates of stainless for the food processing industry to fine
jewelry, and you have no clue as to how surface polishing takes place
or gets done, let alone what the term "surface quality" means.

I know what a micro-finish is, as well as what thickness the industry
uses for various platings on various surfaces including electrical
contacts. Back at you indeed, dipshit.
You picked the wrong battle to make shit up in.

> A few cents more for
>quality parts saves a lot of dollars in down-time and/or repair
>costs.

A standard pencil eraser IS a quality part. See "How it is made"
for a little clue.

[Back to original message]