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Posted by animlovr on 08/30/06 22:40
Thanks. I appreciate the detailed instructions and will give it a try
this weekend.
Best,
Tim
Mike S. wrote:
> In article <1156898300.477118.223180@e3g2000cwe.googlegroups.com>,
> <animlovr@gmail.com> wrote:
> >Hi. I have a Philips DVP642 that was working just fine before a two
> >week vacation. After returning, nothing except the "Stand By" light
> >works. The tray will not eject. It won't turn on or off. I've
> >unplugged it for hours and tried again, but nothing. When I hold down
> >the Stand By button, it just starts flashing. There are some DVD cases
> >on top of the unit, but they've been there long before I left and it
> >worked fine, so I don't think it's a matter of clearance. It's
> >possible that there is a disc in the tray and it may have been left on,
> >but I really don't know for sure. Any suggestions? It's out of
> >warranty, so Philips wants to charge me $15.00.
>
> A quick Google search would turn up gazillions of posts on this. A
> capacitor in the power supply has gone bad. If you can wield a soldering
> iron, you can fix it for pennies.
>
> One example:
>
> Re: Philips DVP 642/37 Power problem..
> _________________________________________________________________
>
> Common DVP 642 problem (only problem with a great player): They die,
> and you have a blinking red power button.
>
> This is actually surprisingly easy to fix. It's really easier than I
> make it look, but I'm just being really clear in case anyone reading
> this has never seen a soldering iron before. Here are the steps I did
> (and note that, if you're still under warranty, this will void your
> warranty). The decision to try this is up to your own discretion
> and may be a last ditch effort before throwing the player away.
>
> Short version: Check the board to see if capacitor C316 is bulging. If
> so, get a 1000u capacitor >=16V and replace it.
>
> Long version:
>
> 1. Unplug everything
> 2. Unscrew the side and rear screws to remove the top cover.
> 3. On the board where the power cable goes in, look for a capacitor
> (looks like a little drum with a '+' on the
> top) that is bulging upward either a little or a lot. It may be
> leaking some brown fluid as well.
> 4. I'm betting that the writing on the board at this location says
> 'C316'. If you google 'dvp642' and 'c316', you'll get hundreds of hits...
> 5. If that's the case, you'll need to find a capacitor and a soldering
> iron. Visit radio shack or similar electronics
> place and buy an elecrolytic capacitor that says 1000u (the 'u' is
> actually a lower case greek 'mu') with a
> voltage greater than or equal to 16v (this is not calculated: it's
> simply what others have reported success with.
> I couldn't find one and used a 35V one instead). You should be able to
> find one that looks somewhat similar to
> the damaged one (it might be a little bigger or smaller, but you'll
> want the same basic shape). This should cost less than $2.
> 6. Borrow or buy a cheap soldering iron and some solder. I borrowed
> one from a friend at work...this is NOT
> my area of expertise, so don't worry about the difficulty!
> 7. Now the tricky part: back on your DVD player, you need to get that
> board out. Unplug the two cables
> connecting to the board we're working on, unscrew the screws holding
> it down, and, using some pliers, hold
> down the wings of the little plastic piece that is still holding the
> board down and slide the board up. I flipped
> this around to get at the bottom while leaving the power cord in
> place.
> 8. Heat up the soldering iron. Locate the spot on the bottom of the
> board where the C316 capacitor is attached.
> Remove your new capacitor from the package. There should be one
> shorter leg which is the negative side. It
> will likely be marked this way as well.
> 9. One side of the capacitor should have a ' -' on it. Note which side
> this is. You may not be able to see it until it
> is removed, so be aware of needing to know this as you remove it.
> 10. After it is warm enough to melt solder, lay the soldering iron
> across the joints you identified as belonging to
> C316. Tug gently on C316 as you do this and it should soon come free.
> This is a little tricky to hold the iron,
> the board, and the capacitor all at once, so please don't burn
> yourself! Again, note which side is negative and
> which hole it came from. This is the negative hole, and the other is
> positive. There will likely be some solder
> left over around each hole. Just try not to let it run between the two
> holes or you will short out the connection.
> 11. Grab your new capacitor and line up the longer leg with the
> positive hole. Lay the soldering iron against
> that hole on the other side and push the leg through. Line up the
> negative leg/hole and repeat. Lay the iron
> across both to heat up enough to push the capacitor legs through and
> the capacitor down to the board.
> 12. Check the connections for each leg. There should be a small mound
> of solder joining each leg to the metal
> of the board, but not running to any other point of the board. If it's
> run to some other points, you'll need to do
> some searching to see how to clean up it up a little bit as I'm not an
> expert at this. If you need a little more
> solder, lay the iron across the joint for a few seconds, then feed
> your solder into the hot spot until a small
> amount flows over the joint. Remove the iron, wait a moment, then
> remove the solder. Look at the other
> solder joints on the board for a rough idea of how it should look.
> 13. Use some wire cutters to trim the legs down to the solder.
> 14. Pop the board back over the plastic piece and reconnect the cables.
> 15. At this point, you're on your own. Personally, I made sure I
> wasn't touching any metal and plugged it in.
> Since I didn't blow any fuses and the player seemed to work, I
> unplugged it, reassembled it, and went to watch a movie.
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