|  | Posted by Frank on 02/15/07 04:40 
On Wed, 14 Feb 2007 15:00:59 -0800, in 'rec.video.desktop',in article <Re: MPEG4 Camcorders - any good?>,
 "PTravel" <ptravel@travelersvideo.com> wrote:
 
 >
 >"Frank" <frank@nojunkmail.humanvalues.net> wrote in message
 >news:rt37t2t7rfda7h4pfiqfrk0np4vqt57pd7@4ax.com...
 >> On Wed, 14 Feb 2007 12:01:14 -0800, in 'rec.video.desktop',
 >> in article <Re: MPEG4 Camcorders - any good?>,
 >> "PTravel" <ptravel@travelersvideo.com> wrote:
 >>
 >>>A couple of points:
 >>>
 >>>1.  Some HD TVs do a good job up-converting 640i (standard definition
 >>>video), and some do an absolutely atrocious job, while looking good with
 >>>HD
 >>>material.
 >>>
 >>>2.  All transcodes (the process of converting non-mpeg2 source material to
 >>>mpeg2) are not created equal.  DVD camcorders, entry-level editing
 >>>packages
 >>>and dedicated software transcoders all produce DVD-compliant mpeg2.
 >>>However, the differences in resulting video quality will be dramatic.  DVD
 >>>camcorders do single-pass, on-the-fly transcodes and result in the worst
 >>>quality.  Entry-level editing packages (and even some mid-range to
 >>>prosumer
 >>>packages) usually compromise on transcode quality and optimize for short
 >>>transcode time.  These will produce better DVDs than a DVD camcorder, but
 >>>they're stll not the best.  The highest video quality will be achieved by
 >>>using a stand-alone transcoder program that can do 2-pass, 10-bit, maximum
 >>>motion search transcodes.  There are inexpensive solutions for this -- I
 >>>use
 >>>tmpgenc -- but transcode time with this product is measured in tens of
 >>>hours
 >>>(transcoding a 2-hour video can take up to 24 hours on my 3 GHz P4).  More
 >>>expensive (much more expensive) software transcoders can achieve equal
 >>>quality in somewhat less time, though I'm not aware of any that can do a
 >>>quality real-time transcode, i.e. 2 hours to transcode a 2 hour video.
 >>>The
 >>>differences in video quality between a DVD camcorder, an entry-level
 >>>all-in-one package and a properly-produced stand-alone transcode are
 >>>obvious
 >>>on a good standard definition television.  On an HD TV that has good
 >>>upscaling capability, the differences will be very dramatic.
 >>>
 >>>3.  I'm strictly a hobbyist.  I produce video for myself, my wife and my
 >>>in-laws, along with the occassional Youtube upload (and I do have my own
 >>>non-commercial website on travel video just for fun).  As you note,
 >>>everyone
 >>>has their own standard for what is "good enough."  I don't know your
 >>>standard, but I can tell you this: I wouldn't expect anything remotely
 >>>acceptable from the Sanyo.  The focus of its design is a gimmick, i.e. a
 >>>small form factor and tapeless video.  I see many, many posts in these ngs
 >>>from people asking, "why does my video look so bad?"  The answer will vary
 >>>depending on how the video was produced, but often the answer is: "you
 >>>used
 >>>a lousy camera with crappy glass that produces video at high-compression
 >>>rates and with low data bandwidth."  No amount of post-processing can
 >>>"fix"
 >>>video like that.  As they say in the computer field, "garbage in, garbage
 >>>out."  Because my videos are important to me, I strive for the best
 >>>quality
 >>>I can (within reason).  The DVDs that I can produce come pretty close to
 >>>commercial quality, but I use a prosumer camcorder, edit with prosumer
 >>>software (Premiere Pro), transcode for highest quality and author the DVD
 >>>with a high-end consumer/prosumer package (Encore).  That may be more
 >>>trouble than it's worth for you, but my feeling is that the memories I
 >>>preserve this way will be something I want to see for the rest of my life.
 >>>
 >>>With all that said, if you're still interested in the Sanyo, I'd suggest
 >>>trying it hands on in a store that will output the video to a decent
 >>>monitor
 >>>(don't rely on the camera's lcd or viewfinder).  Try it under a variety of
 >>>lighting conditions, particularly low-light.  Do some quick pans to see
 >>>how
 >>>it handles motion artifacts.  If you're satisfied with what you see,
 >>>you'll
 >>>probably be satisfied with a DVD produced from the video.  Bear in mind
 >>>that, regardless of how impeccable your technique, the video quality on
 >>>the
 >>>DVD will be degraded from what you see.  The 1080i television issue is a
 >>>red
 >>>herring.  A good up-converting 1080i television will hand a DVD as well or
 >>>better than a standard def television.  A poor-upconverting 1080i set will
 >>>not.  Finally, remember that commercial DVDs of films are not good sources
 >>>to judge the 1080i upscaling ability for home video.  Because of the
 >>>difference in film and video frame rates, televisions (both SD and HD)
 >>>have
 >>>to do 3/2 pull-down -- showing some frames longer than other frames.  This
 >>>is complicated by having to handle interlace issues (that's what the "i"
 >>>in
 >>>1080i stands for).  Because most people want to watch DVD movies on their
 >>>HD
 >>>set, a lot of attention is paid to the 3/2 pull-down system, with less
 >>>paid
 >>>to displaying 640i (standard definition) video material.
 >>
 >>
 >> In the above post, please change all occurrences of "640i" to "480i"
 >> (576i in PAL-land).
 >>
 >> Thank you!
 >
 >You are, of course, absolutely right.  I don't know what I was thinking when
 >I wrote that.  Thanks for correcting it. :)
 
 No problem, your honor. We all make mistakes from time to time. :)
 
 --
 Frank, Independent Consultant, New York, NY
 [Please remove 'nojunkmail.' from address to reply via e-mail.]
 Read Frank's thoughts on HDV at http://www.humanvalues.net/hdv/
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